Go-to spots for the best coastal chardonnays

It has been fashionable for some time for people to claim they’ll drink anything but chardonnay, and yet the stylistically eclectic white wine belies its doubters, remaining the most popular wine of any color in the United States.

Grown in many locations and made in many ways, from rich and oaky to lean and lemony, chardonnay is a chameleon of many colors. From the Sonoma Coast appellation, admittedly a vast area, styles also range, but the coastal influence of many of the vineyard sites typically impacts acidity levels in positive ways, producing wines, even when made in a richer style, of balance and mouth-watering minerality, layered in flavors of lemon, apple and pear.

Many of the best from the coolest of cool-climate sites have the acid, structure and purity of fruit to make them luxurious and elegant. Here are some producers to seek out.

 Wayfarer

Jayson Pahlmeyer made his name in Napa cabernet sauvignon, but came out to the  Sonoma Coast in the late 1990s to develop 70 acres in Fort Ross-Seaview devoted to pinot noir and chardonnay. It was planted in 2002. The first estate-grown pinot noirs and chardonnays, all 2012 vintage, are set to be released soon, made by the very talented Bibiana Gonzalez Rave, formerly of Lynmar Estate. Look for the Wayfarer Vineyard Chardonnay, an elegant study in balance and vibrancy.